How to Avoid Being Mistaken for an Ice-Cream Cone and Other Helpful Tips...

I’ve heard that if you ask for what you need the universe will eventually deliver, in its own way. For some time I had been on the hunt for a heavy coat as an alternative to my Spiewak pea coat. I was beginning to grow search weary when I happened upon a perfect piece by Schott Bros. NYC. The red and black plaid heavy wool coat has faux sherpa lining, a western cut yoke and leather buttons. Truthfully, I had my initial reservations about the piece given that my personal style is inclined more toward urban gentleman than rural rancher. However, rather than the traditional boxy, ill-fitting jackets that typify this particular style I found an impeccably tailored coat that fits better than most blazer’s I’ve tried on. This highlights one of the most important qualities of any garment; the fit. This simple three letter word should carry more weight than any designer name as even the most expensive suit will look abysmal if the tailoring isn’t correct for the body beneath it.

There is an unfortunate discrepancy between the ways clothes are marketed to men versus how they are marketed to women. Dispersed between the shots of models with their unrealistic physiques, one generally finds in women’s magazines helpful pointers on what styles work best with different bodies and what a woman who is “pear shaped” should avoid. These are not rules, but rather advice on how to dress the figure you’ve been given in the most flattering way, highlighting the assets and downplaying the imperfections, regardless what fruit your body is akin to. It is something almost wholly lacking in men’s magazines, which is unfortunate since highlighting whatever assets we’ve been bestowed with should be as important to men as it is to women. If they must daily live with unreal expectations of perfect hair, flawless make-up and stylish clothes then a man can certainly dress himself in clothes that fit.

The incorrect assumption is that one must be in peak physical condition in order to look good in their clothes. The “ideal” body shapes; a broad shouldered small waisted triangle for men and a curvy hourglass for women, would seem to exclude about 80% of the people on the planet. The truth is that these body types have, for better or worse, been considered attractive for at least the last four hundred years and well before we were counting calories and attempting to keep up with our gym regimen. In the absence of healthy diets, trips to the gym or exceptionally generous genes, clothes were tasked with creating the silhouettes deemed most appealing to those we wished to appeal to. This is as true today as it was then. There is not much difference in shape between the universally flattering A-Line skirt sold at J-Crew every year and the tight-bodice, full-skirt gowns of the 18^th century. Each is intended to highlight or give the illusion of a narrow waist while downplaying hips. It is a fine example of combining form and function with the added bonus that women today have been liberated from suffocating, corseted bodices.

So how do the technicalities of fit and proportion work with men’s styles? Unless you wear a kilt or have embraced the man-skirt along with Marc Jacobs, all that talk about A-lines must seem quite superfluous. However, men’s clothing is supposed to be as flattering to our shapes as a woman’s blouse is to her figure. Blazers, for example, should fit close to the body without being tight and nip in at the waist to help create the illusion of broad shoulders, even in instances where they are lacking (the excessive shoulder padding of the 1980’s also attempted to make up for this, however this is the poorer option as when you actually increase the shoulder size your head appears smaller by comparison; a look flattering to no one). Pants should be slim (not tight) and straight legged, or with at most the subtlest taper below the knee. This uniformity of line creates the illusion of height (the illusion is ruined, however if your pants are too long and pool at the cuff) and helps avoid the ice-cream cone shape one achieves by wearing pants which start out pleated and baggy at the waist and taper through the whole leg (a look solidified when one wears a too-large white button-up billowing out over a belt like some giant scoop of vanilla). Thin gentlemen should avoid wider lapels and ties as they will look like a child in their father’s work clothes; while larger gentlemen shouldn’t attempt skinny lapels and ties that will only highlight the expanse of shirt on either side. It seems a bit daunting at first, and again these are by no means steadfast rules, but taking these and other techniques of fit and proportion into consideration will help you achieve a look that is most flattering to your body. The way a garment fits entirely affects the outcome of the look. The aforementioned Schott jacket, regardless of its warmth, the great discount on price or its maker, would not have been a good purchase if I looked more like a lumberjack in it than someone who appreciates heritage brands. Fit is the too-seldom considered trait that makes all the difference.

The Curated Closet and Chasing Cary Grant down the "Middle of the Road"

Given my obsession with gentlemen’s fashion and my perpetual quest to achieve the same level of sophisticated cool as Cary Grant, my wife recently presented me the perfect gift. While researching issues of GQ from the 60’s for a project, she stumbled upon a couple interviews with the style icon and thoughtfully copied them for me. The three articles were each about a year apart from one another, yet there was a common theme that highlights why Grant is widely considered the archetype of the modern gentleman; an approach which should be the cornerstone of any stylish man’s philosophy.

When asked about perpetually being included on best dressed lists throughout his long career, Grant attributed this success to a style he refers to as “middle of the road”. This in no way implies that his clothes were overly conservative in style, as those that are tend to look outdated as rapidly as those that are overly trendy. Rather, it means he chose items that were timeless and would withstand the subtle changes in taste that transform every wardrobe over time. Today the best term I’ve heard for describing this philosophy is the “curated closet”.

The idea of curating your closet implies that, with a few exceptions, only items that coincide with your style and aesthetic are allowed into your wardrobe. Furthermore, these should be items that are not overtly trendy, but also not too conservative as to ensure their longevity. It is a disciplined approach as it means denying yourself something that you somewhat like in favor of the piece that perfectly fits the aesthetic you are trying to achieve. For my own style, the first step was omitting, or at least minimizing logos. This was not unlike a sea-change from the style choices of my early twenties and took some getting used to. After time, however, I realized that my goal was to dress in a way that the clothes spoke for themselves rather than a label speaking for them. It is, however, an ongoing discipline; I’ve forced myself to pass on really great G-Star or Diesel jackets, something at which each brand excels, because of their aggressive use of labels, at which they also both excel. Choices such as the ever-enduring two-button jacket rather than the more transitory one or three-button, the slim straight-leg trouser/jean as opposed to the baggy or skin-tight, or the round toe shoe instead of something mimicking a duck’s foot; all work seamlessly into any wardrobe. They are pieces that will remain viable for years to come (in one article; Cary Grant claimed that one suit he was routinely photographed in was nearly fifteen years old).

It’s not to say that one should cling desperately to every piece, or that one should shun every fashion trend as if it were the plague; the key is editing. Get rid of items that no longer work with your style or that are showing all the wrong signs of age (there is a difference between leather brogues with a fine patina and ones which are scratched and stained with age).  Work current trends into your base wardrobe subtly; a piece here and there rather than drowning in a fad entirely and only those which work with your already established style. This approach will help you achieve and maintain a lasting wardrobe rather than throwing money at fleeting fads year after year.

Most importantly, this approach is unique in that it both requires confidence and fosters confidence. In choosing the “middle of the road” and curating a closet, the onus of maintaining style is entirely upon the wearer. No longer can a brand name or homogenous graphic carry you. The success of the outfit depends solely on your choice of fit, texture, color and the myriad subtleties that make up true personal style; style that, as I’ve heard said, translates the way you see yourself to those around you. It reciprocates this initial offering of confidence by allowing you to feel more confident in your own individuality; that you are presenting yourself rather than a conglomeration of logos. It has the added bonus of inspiring comments like “I like your style” from those whom we welcome such comments.