Dressing like a gentleman, or better yet an adult, shouldn’t fluctuate with the seasons. Sweltering heat is never comfortable but it didn’t excuse men in more dignified times from donning appropriate attire. If Howard Carter can excavate Tutankhamen’s tomb in a suit it seems plausible that the modern gentlemen can manage to get to the office in one. The quality that will most determine whether the suit you buy will suit your summer needs is the material. From wool to cotton, seersucker to linen; options for summer are plentiful. Each fabric has its own strengths and weaknesses; you just have to find the one that works the best for you.
Cotton is a great alternative to wool. It is malleable and breathes well, yet remains sturdy which lends itself nicely to a garment that must be both elegant fitting and durable enough to withstand repeat wearing. Cotton’s great downfall is that its cotton; just like your dress shirts and jeans and most other things in your closet. It suffers from the same weaknesses as any of these; it wrinkles, fades if over cleaned and is generally considered a less formal fabric than wool or silk.
Linen is a slightly more dressy option than cotton and is currently being hyped as the suit of the season by most men’s magazines. Ideally it should be worn slightly rumpled for a raffish, devil-may-care appeal. Keep in mind, however, that it wrinkles much more easily than cotton and there is a fine line between looking rakishly rumpled and sadly disheveled. No gentleman should cross that line!
If you have the moxie for it, seersucker is an excellent summer option. It’s classic and gentlemanly, harkening back to times when dandified gents spent the afternoon sipping mint juleps in the shade. It’s a staple for those living in humid locals and works well with the modern man’s preoccupation with old-fashioned fashion. Like linen it wrinkles easily, but tends to hide it a little better. Tread with caution, though, as there are some clothing items that require a certain persona to pull off. If you’re a guy that tends to dress like an urban woodsman; work boots, cuffed selvedge denim, suspenders, a waxed moustache helps, then you could throw on brogues, wayfarers and a stingy brimmed fedora with your seersucker and look like you were born to wear it. The best modern example of this is alt. country crooner Justin Townes Earle who never looks out of place in his seersucker and bow tie. If you’re not willing to dive into the style and own it then you’ll look awkward at best, no matter how much you spend. A lack of confidence in appearance is the worst way to complete an outfit.
If you’re looking for something that keeps you cool from the office to a formal party, silk is a good option for those who can overcome its shortcomings. The material is renowned for its airy qualities and as such silk suits are remarkably comfortable in the summer months. Additionally, unlike other summer fabrics, silk is appropriate at any venue, from the office to a gala. That said, it comes at a high cost; literally and figuratively. Silk is a demanding fabric that must be worn with care and requires nothing short of an expert hand to achieve a proper fit. It’s not nearly as durable as other fabrics meaning it will wear out sooner and anything that takes less than around a thousand dollars out of your pocket often doesn’t fit well. In this case, comfort comes at a high cost most are not willing, or able to pay.
Lastly, don’t abandon wool entirely in the warmer months. You’re certainly advised to retire heavier weight wool flannels into a garment bag until fall, but lighter weight wools and worsted wools will hold their own against the summer heat just fine. Your suit’s label that says “Super 100’s” isn’t a term of flattery, it describes the fineness of the wool fabric where the higher the number, the finer the wool and the lighter the fabric. Most suits will be in the 100-120 range, with the fineness, rarity and cost of the wool increasing with the number grade. 150’s and 160’s are fairly rare, but the system goes into the 200s. Keep in mind that, like silk, the finer the fabric the higher the price and the more susceptible to snags and tears it is. 120s, however, more than adequately handle both heat and daily rigors.
My parting words on suits; always a slim silhouette no matter what the thermometer says, khaki and sandy tones may be the current mantra but nothing beats navy for versatility and tie width should be commensurate with jacket size. And remember, there is never just cause for doing anything less than gentlemanly. Cheers!
-J
Summer suit picks:
Uniqlo +J slim fit wool Jacket ($229) and trousers ($89)
J-Crew Ludlow Jacket ($258), trousers ($128) and vest ($88) in Irish linen
Billy Reid
Ruston Suit in Khaki Cotton ($895)
All best paired with…
Billykirk #215 double prong buckle belt ($150)
Grenson Tom Brogue ($270)
Zara Briefcase with Zips ($89)
www.zara.com
