Friday, December 30, 2011

An Unfortunate but Necessary Retraction...


     About a year and a half ago I purchased my first pair of Gap 1969 dark, raw, selvage jeans. I had my initial reservations given Gap's penchant for cutting corners with fit and construction, but I was pleasantly surprised to find that for a more than reasonable $80.00 or so I received a pair of selvage jeans in a perfectly rich dark wash that were neither too baggy, nor too tight. Assuming that a couple wearings would reveal some well hidden flaw, especially given the custom of all jean aficionados to forgo washing until absolutely necessary, I braced myself for what I thought was the inevitable loss of fit or crackling in the even indigo finish; neither occurred, even after repeated wearings. I was immediately hooked, so much that only a few months later my wife was kind enough to placate my new obsession with a second pair. I began extolling the virtues of these jeans to anyone that would listen in person and in one of my initial blog postings, and was pleased everytime I was asked whether the Gap jeans I had one were A.P.C. (which happened on several occasions).
     Last week for Christmas my wife presented me with what should have been my third pair, neither of us realizing that Gap had altered their construction (though they retained the original image online). This pair was dark, but definitely pre-washed which ruined the fit and the raw denim look. The denim gauge was also much lighter. Overall they were not the jean either of us were expecting and she immediately felt bad thinking she had bought the wrong ones. After returning to the website and reading through a string of angry product reviews, I found it was Gap's fault entirely. It seems that sometime in August (as this was the time the almost entirely positive reviews changed to almost entirely negative ones) Gap made changes to the jeans but did not mention this in their description online. Rather than the heavier gauge, deep, raw indigo denim used previously, they have switched to a lighter, pre-washed jean and altered the fit. In doing so they ruined not only what was likely the best product they offered, but also one of the best selvage jeans on the market, especially considering the price. If construction cost was an issue, a small price increase would undoubtedly have been a better option than putting out a poor product. It is this sort of sacrifice of quality that most people have come to expect from Gap clothing and it accounts for their dwindling customer base and revenue. So, if you want a decent pair of selvage Jeans I encourage you to try Uniqlo or Levis, either of which could compete with the new Gap selvage and cost less, and if you want an excellent pair of selvage jeans then indulge in a pair of A.P.C., the current best selvage jean for your money.

Friday, December 2, 2011

Five Picks, One Look - Life of the Party

The holidays are upon us and by now I'm sure December's event calendar is nearly filled with the various parties, galas and get-togethers that make the season so festive. Here's how to dress for the occasion with a little subtle refinement to ensure you send the year off right.

1. The tuxedo jacket is the timeless
    essential; but stand out from the
    sea of black in deep indigo with
    black satin lapels.








    Tuxedo Jacket by AMI
    $740.00
    Available at Barneys New York

2. A party is meant to be festive,
    after all, so don't dress so somber. 
    Add a shirt in a saturated hue for
    a punch of color.






    Dress Shirt by Zara
    $60.00
    Available at Zara

3. A party is the perfect opportunity
    to sport a bow tie, even if you shy
    away from them normally. This one
    works well with the overall tone of
    the outfit and adds a subtle pattern.


    Bow Tie by Duchamp
    $115.00
    Available at Barneys New York

4. Slim fit trousers are essential and
    contrary to popular belief, black
    and navy go great together.

    Tuxedo Trouser by Shipley & Halmos
    $365.00
    Available at Shipley & Halmos 
    and Barneys New York

5. Your shoes should be as sleek and
    sophisticated as the rest of your look;
    always go for streamlined and classic.

    Paul Smith "Trinity" shoe in grey
    $405.00
    Available at Paul Smith


Friday, November 25, 2011

Technical Update....

I've changed the settings so anyone can comment on the posts. Sorry it took so long for me to sit down and figure it out. Now to make it searchable....

Holiday Shopping Picks for the Gentleman in Your Life

With the holiday shopping season down to a paltry few weeks quickly dwindling away; I thought it a good time for last minute suggestions for chic, thoughtful and timeless gifts for the fathers, brothers, sons and husbands with a proclivity for gentlemanly accoutrements.  

1. Burberry London Leather Card Case
    Perfect for the minimalist at heart, subtle and
    classic and a great alternative when the daily
    wallet just won't cut it.
    $185.00
    Burberry











2. Modernist Wood Chess Set by Lanler Graham, 1966
    Smart and decorative and perfect for the design geek. The
    shape of each piece is inspired by the movement of the piece
    and its importance.
    $65.00
    MoMA Design Store














3. Italian Marble "Naturalist" Coasters
    A charming and durable idea for any home,
    there is also a series depicting human anatomy.
    (Octopus and Ammonite shown; other designs
    available)
    $15.00 (each)
    Evolution NYC

4. Jack Spade Match Case
    If you smoke you likely started so you'd look cool
    (as it couldn't be for the health benefits). This
    humble little gift is infinitely cooler than a plastic
    lighter and reminiscent of Cary Grant's personalized
    "R.O.T" matches in North by Northwest.
    $38.00
    Jack Spade

5. J-Crew Cognac Leather Passport Holder
    The ideal gift for the savvy traveler. Its already
    rich leather will only improve as time and use
    add to the patina.
    $65.00
    J Crew














6. The Laundress New York "On the Spot" Kit
    My wife has a small addiction to Lush and
    while I don't blame her (the soaps look and
    smell good enough to eat), I don't share her
    enthusiasm. The Laundress would be to me
    what lush is to her. The kit is a good sampling
    of products, while the essential is the stain
    bar for collars and cuffs (Stain Bars: $6.00)
    $40.00 (for the Kit)
    Laundress New York














7. "Fly" Cuff Links by Paul Smith
    Cuff links are the best way to subtly
    work one's unique style and attitude
    into even the most conservative attire.
    Just be sure the gentleman you're
    buying for wears french cuff shirts
    before you charge your card.
    $155.00
    Paul Smith

8. A Well-Dressed Gentleman's Pocket Guide
    by Oscar Lenius
    The best thing about this handy read is that
    it provides not only advice on dressing well
    for all manner of clothing items, but also the
    history and reasoning behind some of our
    current sartorial notions.
    $14.00


9. Mimoco Mimobot USB Drives
    The perfect gift for the nerdy at heart.
    These handy USB drives, available
    in various storage capacities, come
    in a wide range of characters from
    Star Wars, Batman, Transformers
    and many other pop culture and
    design centric realms.
    $20.00 and up
    Mimoco


10. 3-Piece "Rabbit" Wine Opener Set
    An essential for entertaining; this is the
    perfect combination of form and function.
    $45.00




Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Five Picks, One Look - Winter Workwear

When I asked a client of mine how he was preparing for the trials of another unpredictable winter in New York, he responded that he would be forgoing any attempt at enduring the inclement weather by fleeing to Los Angeles immediately following the first snowfall. I can't say that I blame him; the beauty of winter in new york is fleeting at best and one is quickly overcome by the reality of a five block excursion through ankle deep pools of grime blackened slush in minus eight windchill. Not all of us have the luxury afforded a bi-coastal lifestyle, however, and given that taking a winter long sabbatical isn't a likely option we must ready ourselves as best as possible. Here are a few upgrades to consider when dressing for both success and the tundra outside.

1. Billy Reid "Walton" Herringbone
    Tweed Jacket. $650.00
    The "bulk" is just in the fabric; still
    keep the fit slim and the lapels trim.
    www.billyreid.com












2. Billy Reed "Walton" Herringbone
    Tweed Trousers. $275.00
    A good sturdy tweed will stand
    up to most of what mother nature
    throws at you.
    www.billyreid.com











3. H&M Wool Blend Sweater with
    Contrasting Elbow Patches. $29.95
    Wool will keep you warm while still
    being breathable.
    http://www.hm.com/














4. Ben Sherman Long-Sleeve
    Striped Shirt. $79.99
    Don't abandon all sense of color
    in winter; just try darker hues.
    www.nordstrom.com














5. Ted Baker "Poalu" Leather
    Brogue Boot. $320.00 
    Dressy enough for the office;
    rugged enough for the commute.
    www.tedbaker.com

Monday, October 3, 2011

Not to Miss - Objects of Adornment (New Orleans, October 8th)



For those of you lucky enough to be in NOLA this weekend, please stop by Du Mois Gallery (4921 Ferret Street) for a fashion as art exhibition put together by Christy Lorio of the Slow Southern Style Blog (while you're at it, subscribe to this blog if you don't already). A brief synopsis:

"Style is what comes from a careful culmination of exquisite, highly personal objects of adornment. From a simple bow tie to a handmade necklace finishing touches add personality and depth to our outward appearance. Clothing functions as our own wearable art that we can take with us wherever we go and is our most accessible way to express ourselves.

Louisiana clothing and accessory designers Alicia Zenobia, Ben Azevedo, Lacey Dupre, and Kaci Thomassie showcase their unique designs elevating everyday wear into artful expressions of personal style."

If you're in the city then take the opportunity to stop by what promises to be a unique look at some of New Orleans' most talented fashion artists.  

Friday, September 16, 2011

Many Thanks...

I would like to thank Diane Maglio and all the students of her Menswear class at FIT for asking me to speak about my thoughts and views on my own style choices as an American man and men's fashion in general. I appreciate you allowing me to take up so much of your time with what was largely incoherent, off-topic rambling. Nevertheless, I sincerely enjoyed the experience and am happy to be of service in the future, if needed. Best of luck this semester, and after.

Cheers,
J

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Fashionable Art - Two Events Not to be Missed

The Bard Graduate Center - Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones

The Water is Wide 1940 - Stephen Jones Spring/Summer 2011

     - This exhibition, put together by the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, makes it's stateside debut at the Bard Graduate Center (www.bgc.bard.edu) in Manhattan. The collection of more than 200 pieces of head wear consists of works as diverse in function as in form; ranging from a simple brimmed baseball cap once worn by Babe Ruth to whimsical sculptures created by some of today's foremost milliners, such as Philip Treacy and Stephen Jones himself. The show's New York run is from September 15, 2011 to April 15, 2012.

The Museum at FIT - The Daphne Guinness Collection

Sequined Chanel from the Collection of Daphne Guinness

     - Daphne Guinness shares glimpses of her staggering collection of couture from a life spent in pursuit of beautiful fashion. The always stylish heiress to the Guinness fortune, found as often at Paris runways as in society columns, is fortunate enough to count haute couture as one of her passing hobbies. Her collection shows true passion for the art of couture and a self-confident sense of style. The exhibit at FIT is a collaboration between Guinness and Valerie Steele, the museum's director, and will run from September 16th, 2011 through January 7th, 2012. While you're there, catch the Sporting Life exhibit that runs through November. For more information please visit www.fitnyc.edu.

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Dandy of the Week - Paul Simonon

Then                                      Now

Paul Simonon's quiet, cool confidence is a rarity. It's the kind of cool that seems both effortless and unattainable at the same time; graceful would be the most apt term, I suppose. It speaks volumes to the quality of this confidence that in spite of his quiet demeanor he was never overshadowed by his bandmates' larger than life personas, or by the all too brief glimpse of genius that was the Clash. If Mick was the consummate musician, and Joe was the fiery ideals, Paul was certainly the style and swagger in the band deemed the only band that matters. Though more mature and a bit more refined these days, his style remains as natural and raffish now as it ever was.

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Five Picks, One Look - Pitching a Tent

Let's face it, there are times when even the most dyed-in-the-wool urban gentleman wants to escape the concrete and steel of the city. For many, myself included, this is an experience our city lives have poorly prepared us for. So, with preparedness in mind, here are a few items to make sure you survive your foray into the wilds.





                 










Corbridge waxed jacket by Barbour
with quilted lining. Ideal for staying warm
and dry. $375.00
http://www.barbour.com/





















Giant Rugger twill flannel button up,
a great winter staple anywhere. $135.00
http://www.gant.com/





















Todd Snyder alpaca and linen pocket
crew sweater, luxe and breathable and
a perfect added layer of warmth. $295.00
http://www.odinnewyork.com/























Filson oil finish tin cotton pants; both
water resistant and durable. You will
wear out before they do. $140.00
http://www.filson.com/















Timberland Boot Co. Tackhead
eight-inch boot in canvas and
leather with Vibram sole; water
resistant and tough as nails. $375.00
http://www.timberland.com/

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Trend to Skip - Varsity Jackets (unless your name is Axel Foley)


Rag and Bone; $695.00

From the universally cool Converse Chuck Taylor's to the eponymous Polo shirt, men have been adopting items from the sporting world into their daily wardrobes pretty much since they started caring about fashion (lets not forget that the Bowler hat was designed primarily as a gentleman's riding hat). The problem is that some of these items make the transition more smoothly than others. This season brings yet another foray into classic ivy league sporting style with designers pushing the varsity jacket as the newest must have item. The varsity or letterman jacket traditionally has a heavy wool body with arms in leather and is adorned with various totems of athletic achievement such as patches, stripes or pins. When you wear one in school it sends a clear message that you are proud of your team and your athletic ability, however sporting one after graduation sends a more muddled message.
On the average man who doesn't spend his week prepping to play in the weekend's big game, a varsity jacket can end up looking sad and out of place. The wearer either appears adolescent and immature (in the case of most 20 somethings who attempt the look) or like they are unwilling to let go of the "glory days" (anyone over the age of 30, especially if you're exercise regimen has lapsed). If you want to incorporate a classic sense of school spirit into your wardrobe without the risk of appearing either inexperienced or washed up, a better option is the cardigan. Its more versatile than a varsity jacket and comes without the guilt of wearing championship patches you didn't earn (either way you go, skip the patches).

Friday, August 19, 2011

Dandy of the Week - Raphael Saadiq


Raphael Saadiq knows how to wear a suit. Slim and tailored throughout with a little flaring at the jacket and pant cuffs to help retain a sense of personal style. His close cropped hair, thick black glasses and slim ties display the kind of attention to detail in finishing a look that every man should embrace. Its the reason he both sounds and looks like authentic Motown soul. But what else should we expect from someone who played base for Prince, helped found Tony! Toni! Tone! and has produced for John Legend. Truly style to be emulated.

Thursday, August 18, 2011

How to Survive a Wedding without Offending In-Laws or Sacrificing Dignity





Every gentleman should be prepared to properly navigate the experience of a wedding, whether he is the guest, the best man or the groom. Below are just a few things to remember when surrounded by drunken relatives and friends.


Tips for a gentleman attending:
  • Wear a suit or tux; it shows respect for the couple and is a good excuse to get dressed up.
  • Congratulate the bride and groom and thank them for having you, regardless of whether you’re some stranger there with their distant cousin (if this is the case, don't forget to introduce yourself properly. Their day has been awkward enough already)
  • Dance until you’re out of breath
  • Thank the parents of the bride and groom, they likely bought the salmon and top shelf drinks you’re enjoying
  • Talk to strangers, not just the few people you arrived with.
 A true gentleman should not:
  • Drink too much, regardless of whether it is open bar and especially if you plan on toasting in an hour.
  • Roast the groom. while a bit of ribbing in a toast is fun, bringing up anything overly personal or embarrassing is distasteful.
  • Wear anything that makes you look like a part of the wedding party, unless you are part of said wedding party; plan accordingly.
  • Ruin their memories by sneaking into photo backgrounds; its not as funny to their families as it is to you.
  • Unnecessarily draw attention away from the bride and groom; its their day and you’ll get yours, hopefully.
 Tips for the Groom:

  • Regardless of your fear of public speaking, a true gentleman thanks his guests for attending.
  • Chat with your new relatives; you'll be seeing quite a lot of them from now on.
  • Buy your suit or tux rather than rent; its the difference between looking like James Bond or looking like a used car salesman.
  • Have a drink or two, but maintain control. Slurred speech and falling over will not make your significant other happy.
  • Your only job is to dress in a way that doesn’t take an eye away from the bride and to do everything in your power to make her smile.  
Groom's should not:
  • Smash cake into your bride’s face. I’m not sure how this started, and it may have been funny and spontaneous the first time, but now its just clichéd and disrespectful.
  • Make out in front of your friends, family and priest. Save it for the limo ride.
  • Let all of your groomsmen and bridesmaids give speeches if you have more than two of each. Anything more than that is cruel to your guests who have to sit through two hours of increasingly drunken inside jokes; there’s a reason for designating the best man and maid of honor.
  • Bang utensils on your glass to get people’s attention. Speak up if you want to be heard
  • Show up late. Punctuality is a good rule in general but especially so for nuptials.

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Five Picks, One Look - British Heritage

The British are no strangers to dressing well. England is, after all, the country that invented the dandy and London in the 1960's was a Fashion mecca rivaling New York, Paris and Milan. The Mod movement was at it's height; embraced by fashion and music savvy youths from predominantly middle and lower classes appropriating the styles and brands of the upper crust for themselves. Shaggy headed youths in Fred Perry Polo's riding around on Vespa's during the day and hitting Northern Soul hot spots like the Twisted Wheel in finely tailored suits at night. The Mod movement is today considered a milestone in British fashion and continues to permeate style in the UK and around the world, and just as American heritage style is getting its second wind, so to is British heritage. Below are a few, time-tested essentials.


Trim collar button-up
$89.00














 
Harrington Jacket
$280.00














 
Slim Fit Trousers
$30.00














 
Skinny Suspenders
$18.00










 

Brogue Lace-up boots
$300.00

Friday, August 5, 2011

Last Chance! Alexander McQueen - Savage Beauty at the Met.


                                         http://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/

This weekend is the last opportunity to see the Alexander McQueen - Savage Beauty exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art here in New York. From his early years studying tailoring on Saville Row before his rise at Givenchy, to the final few collections of staggering genius he produced for his own eponymous label; the exhibit offer a teasingly brief glimpse at the brilliant body of work produced by a designer who left us long before his time. It runs through August 7th (Sunday) and the Museum will be open late Saturday and Sunday to accomodate the rush, though when I went on a Tuesday afternoon weeks ago there was still a half hour wait, so be prepared and rest assured it is well worth the time.

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Five Picks, One Look - Looking Forward to Fall

Fall is fast approaching and you don't want to be left out in the cold when the weather, not to mention the style, changes. Pick up any one, or all, of the five following pieces (all currently available) and get a head start on building that autumn wardrobe.

The Classic Herringbone Jacket
Whitman Herringbone, Ludlow Fit
$298.00
http://www.jcrew.com/














The Shawl Collar Cardigan
Available in navy or gray, each with elbow patches
$35.00
http://www.hm.com/














Plaid button-up for layering
Cotton or flannel, depending on the weather
$30.00
http://www.uniqlo.com/














Slim-Fit Cords
Rust is a great alternative to brown
$58.00
http://www.levis.com/


The Vintage Rucksack
The gentleman's backpack
$138.00
http://www.fredperry.com/

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

A New Reason to Brave the Tourists of Herald Square; Uniqlo!


I had some time to kill after work the other day so I walked the couple blocks up to Herald Square. This is generally someplace I would advise anybody other than first time tourists to avoid. Once you've seen it its best to keep your distance and avoid the hordes of tourists gawking at three of New York's biggest draws; the Empire State Building, 34th Street Macy's and fake bag vendors. It is, unfortunately, the closest good H&M to my work and I highly recommend their slim fit pants. So, after weaving through the crowds with purpose and declining offers of "Rolex" watches I turned the corner and was greeted by an unexpected but most welcome sight. This fall Herald Square will be welcoming the second, much needed, Uniqlo store to US soil!

Uniqlo, for those who are unfamiliar, is Japan's equivalent of H&M or Topshop. Their men's clothes, like their Swedish and British competitors, generally trend toward slimmer fits and toned down styles that are less expensive versions of runway looks The difference, however, is that unlike H&M which is not always the greatest quality and Topshop which is higher style but grossly overpriced (I don't know if its the English pound conversion, but you're paying J-Crew prices for H&M quality), Uniqlo tends to have a slightly higher construction quality while keeping a low cost. The specialize in closet essentials rather than passing fads and its a great place to stock up on the fundamental pieces that are the foundation of a stylish wardrobe.

While I"m sure the new store will be just as busy as its Soho counterpart, it will bring a fresh option to the Herald Square shopping area which tends to lean toward family favorite mall shops (Gap, Express and Aldo) rather than forward thinking hot spots like Uniqlo. I doubt I'll be waiting in line the first day it opens, but I will certainly take full advantage of its close proximity to work.

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

The Shop - Odin NYC



Odin is the one stop destination for the modern gentleman with a subtle, classic aesthetic. The beauty of each of the three locations, East and West Village as well as the original in Soho, is that they offer clients a streamlined selection of clothing, shoes and essentials. As great as Barneys is, there is still a certain amount of crap one must sift through to find the choice material. The select brands carried at Odin tend to be those at the forefront of men's fashion, though never flashy and always just a hint below the radar which keeps the shops well ahead of the curve. Currently they are offering items from Band of Outsiders, Burkman Bros, Engineered Garments, Common Projects, Thom Browne (a personal favorite) and a few others. If you're in the NYC area, or plan to be, they're not to be missed. Otherwise, take comfort in the fact that they also have a great online site offering most of the items carried in their shops.

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Dandy of the Week - Cary Grant

Born Archibald Leach in Bristol, England, Cary Grant was a self-made man who would become an icon of American cinema and fashion. He exemplified all the traits of a true gentleman and by all accounts was as charmingly self-deprecating, witty, stylish and confident in real life as in his films. Few could wear a suit as well as him, evidenced by the now iconic grey flannel he wore throughout North by Northwest. He set the standard for how a gentleman should carry himself for a generation on the verge of forgetting.  

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Brand Profile: Grenson Shoes



                          
It’s an unfortunate reality that many modern men, especially but not exclusively American, bemoan dress shoes. Complaints generally focus on the incorrect assumption that all dress shoes are uncomfortable, unattractive or both. If you’ve inflicted your feet to eight hours of standing in improperly made “fashion shoes”; shoes that look the part but have none of the quality construction vital for comfort then I wouldn’t blame you for shunning everything but your sneakers. It turns out though that life demands more than sneakers. Despite the perpetual relaxing of the dress code (my previous job proposed “formal Fridays’ on numerous occasions) a real gentleman should retain a sense of pride in dress, especially in shoes. There is, for better or worse, ample truth to the idea of “dress for success”, or my personal favorite “dress for the job you want, not the job you have”. As such, as an alternative to the four-hole black Dr. Marten’s you’ve been wearing to the office (you know who you are), I recommend a pillar of English cobbling, Grenson Shoes.

Grenson’s own history details its humble beginnings. The company was founded by William Green in 1866 and the original Green & Sons would, after a few years, become the abridged Grenson. The company’s “Green Yard” factory, opened in 1874, was the first in the world to use Goodyear welting for gentlemen’s shoes. Grenson passed through several Generations of family ownership until the 80s and in 2010 it was sold to Tim Little who started giving the brand a facelift. Currently Grenson offers a wide variety of Derbies, Brogues, and Boots that offer style, comfort and the quality that only a top-notch shoemaker can offer. The price for a pair averages around $280.00 to $300.00 which is about standard for quality shoes, though they do have a premium line more similar to Church’s, Barker Black or John Lobb that will start at twice that.

Can you find similarly attractive alternatives at brands like Aldo for roughly half the price? Yes, but the trade off is that they won’t be nearly as comfortable and will wear out much sooner. The thing about a quality pair of shoes, like those from Grenson, is that they are an investment that will last years. With proper care (leather treating when needed is really it, maybe getting them re-soled after a few years) they will still be in your shoe rotation long after that pair of Aldos has fallen apart. I just picked up my pair of Grenson “Tyler” lace ups (the black ones in the image above) last summer and I anticipate they’ll still be a well loved, integral part of my shoe arsenal ten years from now.