How to Avoid Being Mistaken for an Ice-Cream Cone and Other Helpful Tips...

I’ve heard that if you ask for what you need the universe will eventually deliver, in its own way. For some time I had been on the hunt for a heavy coat as an alternative to my Spiewak pea coat. I was beginning to grow search weary when I happened upon a perfect piece by Schott Bros. NYC. The red and black plaid heavy wool coat has faux sherpa lining, a western cut yoke and leather buttons. Truthfully, I had my initial reservations about the piece given that my personal style is inclined more toward urban gentleman than rural rancher. However, rather than the traditional boxy, ill-fitting jackets that typify this particular style I found an impeccably tailored coat that fits better than most blazer’s I’ve tried on. This highlights one of the most important qualities of any garment; the fit. This simple three letter word should carry more weight than any designer name as even the most expensive suit will look abysmal if the tailoring isn’t correct for the body beneath it.

There is an unfortunate discrepancy between the ways clothes are marketed to men versus how they are marketed to women. Dispersed between the shots of models with their unrealistic physiques, one generally finds in women’s magazines helpful pointers on what styles work best with different bodies and what a woman who is “pear shaped” should avoid. These are not rules, but rather advice on how to dress the figure you’ve been given in the most flattering way, highlighting the assets and downplaying the imperfections, regardless what fruit your body is akin to. It is something almost wholly lacking in men’s magazines, which is unfortunate since highlighting whatever assets we’ve been bestowed with should be as important to men as it is to women. If they must daily live with unreal expectations of perfect hair, flawless make-up and stylish clothes then a man can certainly dress himself in clothes that fit.

The incorrect assumption is that one must be in peak physical condition in order to look good in their clothes. The “ideal” body shapes; a broad shouldered small waisted triangle for men and a curvy hourglass for women, would seem to exclude about 80% of the people on the planet. The truth is that these body types have, for better or worse, been considered attractive for at least the last four hundred years and well before we were counting calories and attempting to keep up with our gym regimen. In the absence of healthy diets, trips to the gym or exceptionally generous genes, clothes were tasked with creating the silhouettes deemed most appealing to those we wished to appeal to. This is as true today as it was then. There is not much difference in shape between the universally flattering A-Line skirt sold at J-Crew every year and the tight-bodice, full-skirt gowns of the 18^th century. Each is intended to highlight or give the illusion of a narrow waist while downplaying hips. It is a fine example of combining form and function with the added bonus that women today have been liberated from suffocating, corseted bodices.

So how do the technicalities of fit and proportion work with men’s styles? Unless you wear a kilt or have embraced the man-skirt along with Marc Jacobs, all that talk about A-lines must seem quite superfluous. However, men’s clothing is supposed to be as flattering to our shapes as a woman’s blouse is to her figure. Blazers, for example, should fit close to the body without being tight and nip in at the waist to help create the illusion of broad shoulders, even in instances where they are lacking (the excessive shoulder padding of the 1980’s also attempted to make up for this, however this is the poorer option as when you actually increase the shoulder size your head appears smaller by comparison; a look flattering to no one). Pants should be slim (not tight) and straight legged, or with at most the subtlest taper below the knee. This uniformity of line creates the illusion of height (the illusion is ruined, however if your pants are too long and pool at the cuff) and helps avoid the ice-cream cone shape one achieves by wearing pants which start out pleated and baggy at the waist and taper through the whole leg (a look solidified when one wears a too-large white button-up billowing out over a belt like some giant scoop of vanilla). Thin gentlemen should avoid wider lapels and ties as they will look like a child in their father’s work clothes; while larger gentlemen shouldn’t attempt skinny lapels and ties that will only highlight the expanse of shirt on either side. It seems a bit daunting at first, and again these are by no means steadfast rules, but taking these and other techniques of fit and proportion into consideration will help you achieve a look that is most flattering to your body. The way a garment fits entirely affects the outcome of the look. The aforementioned Schott jacket, regardless of its warmth, the great discount on price or its maker, would not have been a good purchase if I looked more like a lumberjack in it than someone who appreciates heritage brands. Fit is the too-seldom considered trait that makes all the difference.