Saturday, January 14, 2012

The Curated Closet and Chasing Cary Grant down the "Middle of the Road"


Given my obsession with gentlemen’s fashion and my perpetual quest to achieve the same level of sophisticated cool as Cary Grant, my wife recently presented me the perfect gift. While researching issues of GQ from the 60’s for a project, she stumbled upon a couple interviews with the style icon and thoughtfully copied them for me. The three articles were each about a year apart from one another, yet there was a common theme that highlights why Grant is widely considered the archetype of the modern gentleman; an approach which should be the cornerstone of any stylish man’s philosophy.

When asked about perpetually being included on best dressed lists throughout his long career, Grant attributed this success to a style he refers to as “middle of the road”. This in no way implies that his clothes were overly conservative in style, as those that are tend to look outdated as rapidly as those that are overly trendy. Rather, it means he chose items that were timeless and would withstand the subtle changes in taste that transform every wardrobe over time. Today the best term I’ve heard for describing this philosophy is the “curated closet”.

The idea of curating your closet implies that, with a few exceptions, only items that coincide with your style and aesthetic are allowed into your wardrobe. Furthermore, these should be items that are not overtly trendy, but also not too conservative as to ensure their longevity. It is a disciplined approach as it means denying yourself something that you somewhat like in favor of the piece that perfectly fits the aesthetic you are trying to achieve. For my own style, the first step was omitting, or at least minimizing logos. This was not unlike a sea-change from the style choices of my early twenties and took some getting used to. After time, however, I realized that my goal was to dress in a way that the clothes spoke for themselves rather than a label speaking for them. It is, however, an ongoing discipline; I’ve forced myself to pass on really great G-Star or Diesel jackets, something at which each brand excels, because of their aggressive use of labels, at which they also both excel. Choices such as the ever-enduring two-button jacket rather than the more transitory one or three-button, the slim straight-leg trouser/jean as opposed to the baggy or skin-tight, or the round toe shoe instead of something mimicking a duck’s foot; all work seamlessly into any wardrobe. They are pieces that will remain viable for years to come (in one article; Cary Grant claimed that one suit he was routinely photographed in was nearly fifteen years old).

It’s not to say that one should cling desperately to every piece, or that one should shun every fashion trend as if it were the plague; the key is editing. Get rid of items that no longer work with your style or that are showing all the wrong signs of age (there is a difference between leather brogues with a fine patina and ones which are scratched and stained with age).  Work current trends into your base wardrobe subtly; a piece here and there rather than drowning in a fad entirely and only those which work with your already established style. This approach will help you achieve and maintain a lasting wardrobe rather than throwing money at fleeting fads year after year.

Most importantly, this approach is unique in that it both requires confidence and fosters confidence. In choosing the “middle of the road” and curating a closet, the onus of maintaining style is entirely upon the wearer. No longer can a brand name or homogenous graphic carry you. The success of the outfit depends solely on your choice of fit, texture, color and the myriad subtleties that make up true personal style; style that, as I’ve heard said, translates the way you see yourself to those around you. It reciprocates this initial offering of confidence by allowing you to feel more confident in your own individuality; that you are presenting yourself rather than a conglomeration of logos. It has the added bonus of inspiring comments like “I like your style” from those whom we welcome such comments.

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