Drowning in a Sea of Fedoras; An Advocation of the Bowler



Not to denigrate the fedora; in all truth its about time men started wearing grown up hats again as opposed to something sporting a team logo and more appropriate for a ten year old. The fact is, however, the fedora isn’t for everyone, me included. The first hang up is that my head/face is just too big and round for a fedora’s angles. Its ok, I’ve come to terms with it. Secondly, some items demand a certain attitude to be pulled off effectively. I look as awkward and ridiculous in a fedora as I do in deep-v tees. For some people they’re perfect, the rest of us need to find our own way. So, for those with equally unruly heads, or a similar affinity for classic pieces, I suggest the bowler, like the one I picked up last October in preparation for a cold New York winter.

The Bowler, Derby or Coke Hat, depending on your locale, has been around since the 1850’s. Originally intended as protection from low branches while riding, the hat’s rounded, sturdy top presents a flattering and Iconic silhouette. It reached its peak of popularity between the late 1880’s and early 1900’s, and became a mainstay in head wear from England to the United States and even atop the heads of women in Peru. More formal than a newsboy, but less so than a top hat, it’s a real hat for a proper gent. It was favored by all social classes and can truly be called the great equalizer. It has graced the heads of literary detectives (Hercule Poirot) and Comic geniuses (Charlie Chaplin). In the 60’s, Avengers agent John Steed’s bowler kept him in the good graces of a cat suit clad Emma Peel and more recently Jude Law donned one as a raffish Watson in Sherlock Holmes. From the haves to the have-nots, ladies to gentlemen, the bowler has long been the hat of choice. Just like the fedora though, the bowler isn’t for everyone. You have to have a certain attitude and confidence to pull it off.

The key to avoid looking stodgy and antiquated is all in the shaping of the bowler and how you wear it. The crown of the hat will always be a dome, but that doesn’t mean you can’t inject your own attitude and style. A proper gentleman’s hat shop will be able to “curl” the brim. This process involves steaming the brim so it is malleable and curling the sides upward and the front and back downward. The degree of curling is entirely up to you; if you feel you want more don’t be afraid to ask them, a good shop will be happy to oblige. Ideally, the hat should be a true bowler; meaning that it is sturdy throughout, not soft, and is made of either wool or fur. This helps the piece hold the domed crown and the brim shape. If you go with a soft option, try one with a wired brim as this will enable you to curl it. Avoid soft hats without a wired brim as no matter what you do, the brim will not take to shaping or curling. Finally, once the piece is curled, don’t be afraid to wear it a bit cocked to one side. You are, after all, trying to make a statement; right? And always remember, there is never just cause for doing anything less than gentlemanly.

Cheers

-J

Proprietors of Fine Hats (including, but not limited to, bowlers)

J.J. Hat Center - New York's Oldest Hat Shop; est. 1911